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There comes a moment on the homestead when you realize you’ve crossed a line. For some people it’s baking sourdough daily. For others it’s owning more canning jars than cups.

For me?

I was standing in my kitchen, surrounded by slowly melting pig fat, thinking, “Wow. This smells like productivity.”

Welcome to the world of rendering pig fat—also known as making lard—and yes, it’s exactly as old-fashioned, practical, and oddly satisfying as it sounds.

First of All… Why Render Pig Fat?

Because wasting good fat feels like a crime.
Because store-bought lard doesn’t even compare.
Because once you realize how versatile real lard is, you start eyeing every pie crust, biscuit, and cast-iron pan differently.
Rendered lard is fantastic for cooking and baking, shelf-stable when stored correctly, and a homestead staple our great-grandparents swore by.

It also somehow makes you feel wildly accomplished for doing something humans have done forever.
And if you’re already raising pigs? It’s basically free.

A Quick Word About Pig Fat
Not all pig fat is the same, and knowing this upfront saves confusion later. Leaf fat—the soft fat from around the kidneys—is the gold standard. It’s clean, mild, and perfect for baking. Back fat and trimmings work beautifully too, especially for frying and everyday cooking, though they carry a slightly stronger pork flavor.

No matter the type, clean fat matters. Trim away any meat, blood spots, or questionable bits. Better trimming now means better lard later—and a better-smelling house.

The Setup:

t’s Simpler Than It Sounds
Rendering pig fat doesn’t require fancy equipment or a culinary degree. A sharp knife, a heavy pot ( slow cooker or electric roaster oven), cheesecloth, a fine mesh strainer, and some patience are really all you need.

Cut the fat into chunks. Try to do it on the smaller size if you can. Smaller pieces render more evenly and more efficiently. This is not the moment to rush. Cold fat cuts easier, and future flaky biscuits depend on this step.
The Process: Low, Slow, and Slightly Magical

Once everything is chopped, place the fat into your pot, slow cooker, or roaster oven and turn the heat to low. Very low. We’re melting, not frying. No water, no oil—just time.

As the fat heats, it slowly transforms. The solid pieces shrink and release their liquid, turning into crispy little cracklings while the pot fills with clear, glossy fat. Stir occasionally to keep things moving and prevent sticking. This can take anywhere from a couple of hours to most of the afternoon depending on how much fat you’re rendering.

You’ll know it’s ready when most of the fat has liquefied, the cracklings are golden and floating, and the bubbling slows way down. At that point, turn off the heat.
Carefully strain the hot liquid through a fine mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth into a heat-safe container. I use both because I like my lard extra clean.

What you’re left with is liquid gold—pure, homemade lard.
Pour the strained lard into clean glass jars and let it cool at room temperature. As it cools, it turns snowy white and solid, which is always deeply satisfying to watch.
Storage (Yes, the Pantry Is an Option)
Once cooled, label your jars with the date. Properly rendered lard can be stored in several ways.

In the pantry, in a cool, dark place, if it has been fully rendered, well strained, and sealed
In the refrigerator for a longer shelf life
In the freezer for long-term storage
Pantry-stored lard should be used first and checked occasionally. Good lard smells clean and mild. If it ever smells sour or off, trust your nose and toss it.

Don’t Forget the Cracklings

Those crispy bits left behind are cracklings, and they’re a bonus. Sprinkle them with salt, add them to cornbread, or eat them straight from the bowl while pretending you’re just “quality testing.”

The Smell (Let’s Address It)

Yes, your house will smell like pig.
Not bad pig. Just honest pig.
It fades..the smile doesn’t!

Why It’s Worth It

Homemade lard makes the flakiest pie crusts, fries food beautifully, and seasons cast iron like a dream. It connects you to generations before grocery stores existed and gives you a quiet confidence that says, I can handle things.

There’s also something deeply satisfying about using every part of an animal with intention and respect. Nothing wasted. Nothing rushed.

Final Thoughts from the Lard Side of Life

Rendering pig fat isn’t glamorous.
It’s not trendy.
And it definitely won’t impress your city friends at dinner parties.
But it will stock your pantry, save you money, and remind you that some of the best skills are the ones that smell a little funny and take a little time.

And if you ever find yourself labeling jars of lard like it’s completely normal—
just know you’re doing it right.

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#mjbackyardingwithkids #lard #countryliving #pigfat #tuesday #manywaystousethis #following #winterthingstodo #baking #slow #pie #castironpans #takestime #kunekune #nowaste

Oops… I did it again.
I brought home more goats.
I didn’t wake up planning to explain myself to anyone. I woke up thinking about fencing, feed bins, and whether I had enough coke, But somehow, by the end of the day, I was unloading goats and mentally preparing for the comments I already knew were coming.

“Another one?”

“Didn’t you just get goats?”

“Are you sure that’s a good idea?”

“What does your husband think?”

“How many goats is that now?”

It’s funny how familiar those questions are. They come faster than congratulations and louder than excitement, and yet—here I am.

So meet Buttercup and Belladonna my  Nubians.   Already settled in like they’ve always been here. Buttercup stays close to Belladonna she gentle and curious, watching me like she’s trying to figure me out. Belladonna is bold, loud, and completely unapologetic. She announced herself the moment her hooves hit the ground. I smiled anyway.

The truth is, I don’t buy goats on a whim. There’s thought behind it.   Feed calculations scribbled on paper that ends up shoved in someones pocket. Conversations that start with, “We don’t need another goat,” and slowly turn into, “But… we could make it work.” ” this would work for our milking ”

Yes, goats are loud.
Yes, they scream when they’re hungry.
Yes, they climb, and stare at me like I’m the problem.
But they also make me laugh on days that feel heavy. They give rhythm to my mornings and purpose to my evenings. They remind me why I chose this life—messy, loud, and full of heart.

Homesteading isn’t about perfection. It’s about choosing joy, even when it comes with extra feed bills and muddy boots. It’s about building something slowly, intentionally, and sometimes with one more goat than planned.

So yes—Buttercup and Belladonna are home.
Yes, I got more goats.
Yes, I knew exactly what I was doing.
The opinions can stay outside the fence.
The goats are safe inside it.
Oops… I did it again.

Thanks for reading.

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Social media is full of homestead photos—the golden sunsets, baby animals, tidy barns, and smiling faces. And those moments are real.  They’re beautiful. They’re worth celebrating.
But there’s another side of homesteading that doesn’t always make it into a perfectly framed picture.
The hard days.
The quiet losses.

The moments that remind you that when you choose this life, you choose all of it.
Losing livestock is never easy. It doesn’t matter how long you’ve been doing this or how many animals you’ve cared for.

It hurts every time. In the beginning there are often tears, that heavy lump in your throat, the disbelief that something so alive yesterday is suddenly gone.

As time goes on, people sometimes assume you become heartless. That you stop caring. But that isn’t true at all.
You don’t care less—you just learn how to keep going.

You learn that sometimes you can do everything right. You can research, prepare, check, double-check, worry, and pray… and still lose an animal.

That’s one of the hardest truths of homesteading. Life doesn’t always bend to effort or intention.

Recently, we lost our Mr. White Goodmen.
He wasn’t the goat that came running for pets or scratched his head against your leg. In fact, he made it very clear that humans were more of an inconvenience than a source of affection. He’d give you that look—the one that said you were interrupting his important goat business—and move on with his day.

But he was a handsome buck. Strong. Striking. Exactly who he was meant to be.
And he will be missed.

Homesteading isn’t just about growth and abundance. It’s also about learning to hold gratitude and grief at the same time. About loving deeply, even when you know loss is part of the deal.

This is one of those days we don’t post cute pictures.
But it’s still part of our story.
Rest easy, Mr. White Goodmen. 🤍

#HomesteadLife #nevereasy #mjbackyardingwithkids #monday #havetosaygoodbye

There’s something magical about asking gardeners this question. Their eyes light up, their shoulders lift, and suddenly you’re buried under stories about heirloom varieties, surprise successes, and that one plant they’ll never grow again because it tried to take over the entire yard.

For me, choosing a favorite is impossible—so I pick three: tomatoes, peppers, and pumpkins. Each one brings its own kind of joy to the garden, and honestly, I’d miss them if one didn’t make it into the yearly lineup.

Tomatoes: The Overachievers of Summer

Tomatoes are the divas of the garden—demanding, dramatic, and always worth it. There’s nothing like checking the vines in midsummer and seeing those bright red gems shining back at you. Whether it’s a handful of cherry tomatoes for snacking or a big slicer destined for a BLT, they never disappoint. They’re the heart of my garden and the one plant I always make room for… even when I swear I won’t plant as many next year.

A Quick Note About Tomatoes & Livestock Safety

As much as we love growing them, tomatoes come from the nightshade family. That means the green fruits, stems, and leaves contain solanine—a natural toxin that livestock shouldn’t consume. Animals like goats, sheep, pigs, and chickens etc..should not be fed green tomatoes or tomato plants, as they can cause digestive issues or more serious problems.

Ripe tomatoes are fine for them  but the whole plant and green tomatoes should stay out of the livestock treat bucket.

Peppers: The Flavor Builders

Peppers come with personality. Sweet, spicy, crunchy, colorful—there’s a pepper for every mood. I love how they quietly do their thing all season long without making a fuss. They’re sturdy, dependable, and generous once they start producing. From fajitas to salsa to stuffing them for dinner, peppers earn their keep on my homestead!

A Fun Fact About Chickens

People love to joke that giving spicy peppers to chickens might make the eggs spicy, or even the chicken itself. ( as if they can be pre-seasoned 🤣) Thankfully, that’s just a funny homestead myth. Chickens cannot taste capsaicin—the compound that makes peppers hot—so they can chow down on jalapeños like they’re snacking on mild bell peppers. And no, it won’t make your Sunday dinner spicy. It’s just one of those quirky, almost-disappointing  facts.

Pumpkins: The Garden Party Guests

Pumpkins are the plants that make you feel like a kid again. Watching the vines sprawl across the yard, spotting those bright  green globes forming under the leaves. Then the excitement of them turning orange or white —there’s something so wholesome about it. Pumpkins carry a bit of magic with them, and harvesting them feels like celebrating the end of the growing season with a big, round trophy.

Pumpkins for Livestock: More Than Just a Treat

One of the reasons I love growing pumpkins is how useful they are around the homestead. From seeing the joy on my children’s faces to seeing the livestock enjoying them. Many livestock keepers feed pumpkins (especially the seeds) as a natural support for deworming. Look up the holistic ways pumpkins can help. Remember pumpkins are a great  treat that can help support a healthy gut. Goats, chickens, pigs, and cows all love them—and nothing goes to waste.

So now I want to know… what’s your favorite thing to grow in your garden?
Is it something practical, something nostalgic, or something that just makes you smile? Drop a comment and share—gardeners love to swap stories, after all.

Thank you for reading my blog! If you would please share my blog on social media platforms, I would greatly appreciate it.

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When Your City Friends Start Treating You Like You Joined a Cult.

The minute you tell your city friends you’ve started homesteading, something changes. Suddenly, you’re no longer just you — you’ve become “that friend who milks goats and talks about compost like it’s a lifestyle.”

They’ll smile politely while  clutching their oat milk lattes and say things like, “That’s… so rustic of you!”
(Translation: You’ve lost your mind, and we’re worried you might start wearing overalls to brunch.)

Next thing you know, they’re asking werid questions:
“Do you still have Wi-Fi out there?”
“Isn’t it, like, lonely?”
“Wait… you actually eat the eggs your chickens lay and the chickens?”
Yes, Beatrice. That’s literally the point.

Then come the backhanded compliments.
“You’re living such a simple life!” — as if I traded my brain for a butter churn.
“I wouldn’t live like you, especially when there are supermarkets but so awesome for you”
“You must save so much money growing your own food.”
(Sure, after you buy the fencing, the feed, the vet supplies, and the tractor that costs more than your car.)

But deep down, you can tell they’re a little jealous. While they’re stuck in traffic, I’m collecting fresh eggs and watching my goats do their daily comedy routine. While they’re paying $8 for a salad, I’m eating one that grew right on my homestead — and yes, it tastes better because I did it and  I didn’t have to parallel park for it.

Quick Lesson for the City Folks: What’s What Out Here

Before Beatrice starts calling my place “the farm,” let’s clear up a few things — because not every patch of land with animals and dirt is the same:

A Farm – This is where people grow crops or raise animals mostly for income. Think rows of corn, dairy barns, and tractors that look like they belong in a museum of heavy machinery. Farms are about production — feeding communities, selling goods, and (hopefully) turning a profit.

A Ranch – Now, ranches are a whole different vibe. Ranchers are the folks managing big open land, usually raising cattle or other livestock. It’s cowboy country — less “cute chickens” and more “herding 200 head of beef on horseback.” If you’re picturing a cowboy hat and a big sky, you’re right on target.

A Homestead – That’s me. Homesteading is more about self-sufficiency than big business. It’s growing your own food, raising animals for your own table, and learning to live a little more independently. It’s where the goal isn’t “profit,” it’s “peace.” (Okay, and maybe bragging rights when your tomatoes actually grow.)

So, let them think I’ve gone full Little House on the Prairie. That’s fine. I’ll be over here with my animals, my garden, and my peace and quiet — living the dream they’ll never admit they want.

Thank you for reading my blog. If you would share on social media platforms I would greatly appreciate it!

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#mjbackyardingwithkids #homesteading #chickens #eggs #deliciouscluckers #gardening #work #countryliving #dontbesnotty #wednesday #selfsufficientliving #livestock #goatmom #cowmom #chickenmom #pigmom

When we first decided to add pigs to the homestead, I’ll admit — I was a little nervous. I had visions of giant hogs running me down! 🤣

Then  my husband said look at  the Kune Kune pig, and everything I thought I knew about pigs changed.

These little charmers are the gentle souls of the pig world — short, round, friendly, and full of personality. The kind of pig that’ll follow you around like a dog, grunt for attention, and flop over dramatically for a belly rub the second you look their way.

🌿 A Bit of Kune Kune History

The name Kune Kune (pronounced “koo-nee koo-nee”) actually means “fat and round” in Māori — and honestly, it fits them perfectly. These pigs hail from New Zealand, where they were traditionally kept by the Māori people. By the 1970s, they were nearly extinct, but thanks to a few dedicated breeders, they’ve bounced back in a big way and made their way to homesteads all over the world.

🏡 What Makes Them So Special

Kune Kunes are small pigs with big personalities. Fully grown, they weigh between 100 and 250 pounds — sturdy but manageable. They come in every color combination imaginable — black, ginger, cream, white, and spotted like little cows. Some even sport adorable chin tassels called piri piri, which give them an extra dose of charm.

But here’s the best part: Kune Kunes are true grazers. Unlike most pigs that love to root and till everything in sight, these pigs prefer to munch on grass. That means your pastures should stay intact, your yard doesn’t look like a battlefield, and you get your very own eco-friendly lawn crew.

🌾 Easy Keepers for the Small Homestead

Because Kune Kunes can thrive mostly on grass, they’re one of the most affordable pigs to keep. A bit of supplemental grain, veggies, or fruit keeps them happy and healthy. They also don’t require massive barns or complicated setups — just a simple shelter for shade and protection, some fencing, and room to roam.
They’re quiet, calm, and social, which makes them perfect for small homesteads. My Kune Kunes love to greet me every morning with cheerful grunts, waiting patiently (well, mostly patiently) for their breakfast.

❤️ Personalities You Can’t Resist

Every Kune Kune has a unique personality. We have one who thinks she’s a goat, until we moved her over with the other pigs. We also had a few that think they are better off with the cows. No matter how many times we moved them out of the cows pasture they decided thats where they belong. The cows don’t mind at all, in fact I believe my heifer loves them more than she does anything else. 🤣   They’re affectionate, curious, and genuinely seem to enjoy human company.

They’re the kind of animal that turns daily chores into moments of joy. There’s nothing quite like hearing those happy snorts as they waddle over to say hello.

🐖 Thinking About Breeding?

If you ever decide to raise Kune Kunes, you’re in for a treat. They’re wonderful mothers, usually with small, manageable litters.  They are pregnant for three months three weeks and three days. ( 116 to 118 days ) Piglets are sturdy, friendly, and ridiculously cute — tiny versions of their round parents, complete with little grunts and wiggles.
Handled early, they grow into some of the most even-tempered pigs you could ask for. And honestly, watching them grow up on pasture is one of the most rewarding parts of homesteading life.

🌞 Why I’ll Always Have Kune Kunes

For me, Kune Kunes aren’t just another homestead animal — they’re part of the family. They make me laugh daily, with learning to sit and to do other tricks.  They’re proof that pigs can be both practical and downright delightful.
If you’ve ever wanted pigs but were intimidated by the idea, start with Kune Kunes. They’re gentle, friendly, and  while they can be easy on the land remember they are pigs and while I have a few that are wonderful. I also have a few that like to root up the bottom of the fence! Yes I said it. While kune kune are known as the pig breed that won’t do this, you have to keep in mind when they want those weeds or grain on the other side of the fence they will be the first to show you that your fence wasn’t made for them!  There are many different options for what to do. Do your research for what fencing you think will work for your homestead.

We have our fencing lined with wood at the bottom. Its been working great and even started doing this idea in other areas of our homestead.  So remember — Life’s better with Kune Kunes — they mow your grass, steal your heart, and occasionally your snacks. 💚🐷

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💬
You ever have that one goat who looks like they’ve been through a bad breakup — dull coat, rough skin, attitude for days? Yeah… turns out it’s not sass, it’s a mineral problem. 😅

I used to think salt blocks were enough until my goats gave me that “you tried” look and walked off. Now I’m deep in the world of copper boluses, selenium  and balancing calcium like I’m running a goat chemistry lab. Here’s what I’ve learned about the minerals your goats actually need — and how to keep your herd looking fabulous while still chewing your fences.

🧂Rock On, Goats! — My Never-Ending Quest for the Right Minerals 🐐✨

If you’ve owned goats for longer than five minutes, you’ve probably realized two things:
1️⃣ They’ll eat / taste everything except what you actually want them to.
2️⃣ They somehow need more supplements than a bodybuilder.
I used to think minerals were just a fancy word for salt. (You know, the stuff you set out and hope they lick once in a while.) Oh, how wrong I was. Turns out, minerals are one of the most important parts of keeping goats healthy, shiny, and sassy — and my herd has helped me along this journey.

🧲 Salt (Sodium & Chloride): The Goat Snack That Isn’t a Snack

When I first started, I set out one of those big red mineral blocks like you’d give to cows. My goats sniffed it, gave me a look of deep betrayal, and walked away.
Lesson learned: goats don’t like working that hard for their minerals.
Now I give them loose minerals with salt mixed in, and they actually use it. Salt helps keep their hydration and muscles in check — and saves the goats trying to lick the barn walls….haha they still lick the walls 😂. They are goats doing goat things.

💪 Calcium & Phosphorus: The Dynamic Duo

These two are like the peanut butter and jelly of goat nutrition. They keep bones, muscles, and milk production in top shape. But they’ve got to stay balanced. Too much phosphorus (usually from too much grain) can lead to urinary stones in males. So I keep an eye on their calcium-to-phosphorus ratio and try to keep it around 2:1. It’s basically math, but with goats staring at you while you do it.

🧡 Copper: The Diva Mineral

Copper might as well wear sunglasses and demand filtered water — it’s that dramatic.  Goats need it for shiny coats, strong immune systems, and good fertility. But too little copper, and you’ll see faded coats, balding tails, and a whole lot of attitude.

✨  Never buy “sheep and goat” minerals unless you enjoy disappointment. Also don’t give your sheep a lot of copper that can kill them, goats require more than what sheep can handle. 

🌞 Selenium: The Tiny Powerhouse

If you’re in a selenium-deficient area like me, you know the struggle. Selenium keeps muscles strong — especially in newborn kids. A lack of it can lead to “white muscle disease,” which is as awful as it sounds.

My fix? I use a loose mineral selenium, as with everything you need to be careful too much  could be crucial  because it is possible to overdose, which can be toxic or fatal to goats.

💅 Zinc: Because Goats Deserve Great Skin, Too

Zinc helps with skin, hooves, and immune health. If I start seeing flaky skin or bald patches around noses, I know zinc might be low. But here’s the kicker — too much calcium can block zinc absorption.
It’s all a balancing act… and honestly, I think goats enjoy watching us stress about it.

🦴 Magnesium & Manganese: The Unsung Heroes

These guys don’t get the spotlight, but they’re just as important.
• Magnesium supports muscle and nerve function (a deficiency can lead to stiffness or even tetany).
• Manganese helps with bone growth, fertility, and milk production.

Basically, these two are like the quiet farmhands keeping everything running smoothly behind the scenes.

🍌 Potassium: The Energy Booster

Potassium keeps goats hydrated and supports muscle and heart health. It’s especially important during hot weather or if your goats get scours (diarrhea).

If your goats look tired or weak after a heatwave, a little extra potassium — usually from good-quality forage or supplements — can make a difference.

💨 Sulfur: The Coat Supporter

Sulfur helps build healthy hair, hooves, and amino acids. It’s one of those “don’t think about it till it’s gone” minerals.
Just be careful — too much sulfur can block copper absorption, leading to those dreaded faded coats.

🧂 Iodine: The Throat Protector

Iodine keeps the thyroid running smoothly. Without it, goats can develop goiters (yep, neck lumps) and may have breeding or kidding issues.

💙 Cobalt: The Vitamin B Buddy

Cobalt is like the behind-the-scenes producer for Vitamin B12 — goats need it for digestion and energy. Without enough cobalt, they can get anemic or lose weight even when they’re eating fine.
Cobalt is often overlooked, but it’s vital for rumen health.

⚙️ Iron: The Oxygen Carrier

Iron keeps the blood healthy and helps prevent anemia. It’s especially important for kids and lactating does.
Usually, good hay and forage provide enough, but goats that are wormy or recovering from illness might need extra support.

🧡 Blocks vs. Loose Minerals

Forget the blocks. Goats just don’t get enough from them. Loose minerals are where it’s at.  While you should keep your minerals in a covered feeder inside the barn or at least something over them, so it stays dry! I have yet to do this.                                                       I would highly recommend something with a cover though. If it gets wet, the goats will be unhappy and so will you. When the minerals get wet they clump together or can get moldy. If you do have them uncovered as I do then watch the weather as best as you can if it looks like rain remove the trays.

⚖️ Finding the Balance (and Your Sanity)

Goat minerals are all about balance. Too much iron or sulfur can block copper. Too much calcium can block zinc.
It’s like nutritional Jenga — one wrong move, and your goats start looking rough.
But don’t panic. Start with a good-quality, goat-specific loose mineral I use sweetlix, my goats have access to this all the time, and while I only went over a few of the minerals there are many more! Where do I get my other minerals from… Little Avalon Farm. They sell the minerals along with other things, they also have lots of information!

🪶 The Bottom Line

If your goats could talk, they’d probably say:
“Thanks for the minerals, now hand over your sandwich.”
Keeping a good mineral mix available year-round is one of the easiest ways to keep your herd healthy, shiny, and ready to cause more barnyard drama. So if you haven’t yet, set out some fresh loose minerals — and watch your goats rock on!

🏡 From the Homestead:

Out here, there’s always something new to learn — whether it’s how to balance minerals or how to convince your goats not to stand on top of the mineral feeder.  Every season brings a new lesson, a few muddy boots, and at least one goat that refuses to cooperate. But honestly? I wouldn’t trade this crazy, mineral-measuring, goat-chasing life for anything. 💚
Here’s to shiny coats, healthy herds, and never running out of coke… because these goats sure aren’t slowing down anytime soon. 🥤🐐

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🏡 Homestead Diary Entry: The Day I Learned Milking a Goat Is Equal Parts Yoga, Wrestling, and Patience Training

If you’re diving into the world of homesteading, there’s one moment that makes you feel like you’ve truly “arrived” — the first time you pour a jar of fresh, creamy milk that came straight from your own goat. It’s wholesome, satisfying, and just a little chaotic (because, well… goats).
Milking goats is a daily dance between human determination and goat attitude. Some mornings it’s peaceful and calm, other days it’s a full-contact sport. But once you get the hang of it, you’ll never look at store-bought milk the same way again.

Whether you’re milking your first doe or fine-tuning your technique, here’s a few things  you need to know to make milking time smooth, sanitary, and maybe even enjoyable.

🐐 Step 1: The Prep Work — Clean Goat, Clean Hands, Clean Bucket

Before you even think about milking, cleanliness is key. Dirt, hair, and hay will find their way into that milk if you skip this step.

• Brush your goat’s udder and belly to remove debris. ( I give a good brushing also on their backs and sides. After all they are giving you milk why not give more of a brushing.)

• Wash the udder with warm water and a clean cloth or udder wipes. ( some use this. I how ever do not. I like to use my own mixture that my neighbor introduced to me – you will need a spray bottle or a squeeze bottle,  I like to use lavender essential oil, lemon essential oil. 20 drops of each (if you do not want to use lavender you could use eucalyptus essential oil  with the lemon essential oil) and  2 tbsp Of castile soap.  Mix well put in your bottle of choice.  Spray on the teats and wipe with a clean cloth some use paper towels.  I like to use a cotton wash cloth. I wash my cloths after I’m done)

• Dry completely — moisture is not your friend when it comes to milking time.

• Clean your hands –  I wash before I get started with everything, yes I know you are handling the brushing and their cleaning but unless you have a sink in your milking area you are not going to be able to clean your hands between all your does for milk.

• What to put your milk into – Try to use a stainless steel bucket or glass jars.  Plastic holds smells and scratches easily (and no one wants a side of barn aroma with their latte).

🪑 Step 2: Set the Scene — Milking Stand = Your Best Friend

If you don’t already have a milking stand, build or buy one. Trust me, crouching in the dirt while your goat tap dances around is a fast track to back / knee pain and  bad moods. Cause I am not in my 20s and my knees and back won’t take that. 🤣
A milking stand keeps your doe secure, raises her to a comfortable height, and — most importantly — lets you bribe her with grain while you work. A busy mouth means less mischief from the back end. ( you hope! )

Want to make things even easier? Some goat owners use a milking sling to gently lift and support their goats during trimming or milking. It’s like a spa hammock for your goat — minus the cucumbers on her eyes.

🥛 Step 3: The Technique — Squeeze, Don’t Pull

Goat teats aren’t udders on a cartoon cow. Pulling is a no-no. Instead, trap the milk in the teat with your thumb and forefinger, then gently squeeze downward with the rest of your fingers.
It’s all about rhythm. Think of it like playing a tiny udder piano — soft, steady, and in tune with your goat’s patience level.
Pro tip: The first few squirts should go into a separate cup or the cloth (to check for clumps or discoloration) before milking into your main bucket.

🧊 Step 4: Chill Out (Literally)

Once you’re done, strain the milk through a fine filter, coffee filter, or cheesecloth and get it chilled as quickly as possible. Cold milk tastes fresh; warm milk… tastes like regret.
Pop it in the fridge right away or use an ice bath to speed up the cooling process. The faster it cools, the fresher it tastes.

💕 Bonus Tips for a Happy Milking Experience

• Stick to a schedule: Goats are creatures of habit. Miss milking time and she’ll let you know. Loudly. ( I milk in the morning and then in the evening remember your doe in milk will need to eat twice a day)

• Massage matters: A gentle udder massage can help get milk flowing and keep your goat relaxed.

• Be patient: Some goats are milk stand divas at first. Consistency (and grain) wins them over. ( after we are done milking we give a treat, animal crackers, apple cut into little chunks,  peanuts some of mine love them in the shell and some don’t care for the shell)

• Keep records: Track how much milk you’re getting — it helps you spot health or feed changes early.

• Use that sling when needed: It can make things safer and easier for both of you if your goat is fidgety or needs extra support.

😂 The Reality Check

You’ll spill milk. You’ll get head-butted. You might even find hoof prints in places they shouldn’t be. But the moment you pour that fresh, creamy milk into your first homemade batch of cheese, yogurt, or soap — it all feels worth it.
So grab your bucket, take a deep breath, and embrace the chaos. Because once you get into the groove, milking time becomes less of a chore and more of a morning meditation — just with more bleating.

At the end of the day, milking goats isn’t just about the milk — it’s about the bond, the rhythm, and the bragging rights when you tell people you literally got your own milk.

🥛🐐✨ Please share your photos with me of your goats, set up, or even what works for you or what doesn’t! 

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If you’ve owned goats for more than five minutes, you already know they come with two things: big personalities and high-maintenance feet. Trimming hooves isn’t anyone’s favorite chore — it’s somewhere between “catching chickens in a thunderstorm” and “convincing a toddler to eat vegetables.”
But it’s gotta be done.

Healthy hooves mean happy goats, and happy goats mean fewer dramatic limp sessions and less side-eye when you walk into the barn with trimmers in hand.

My First Time Trimming  Hooves

Let me tell you, my first hoof-trimming experience was… humbling. I had my fancy new trimmers, a goat who looked innocent enough, and zero clue what I was doing. Five minutes later, I had dirt on my face, a goat that was kicking and bucking, hitting my hand and wrist giving me some nice bruises!!  The overwhelming realization that this was not as easy as the YouTube lady made it look.
But over time, I learned some of the tricks — and the bruises healed — so now I can pass on some information and maybe you can skip the chaos… or at least minimize it.

Why Hoof Trimming Matters

In the wild, goats climb rocky hillsides that naturally wear their hooves down. On our nice soft pastures? Not so much. When hooves grow too long, they start curling and trapping moisture and gunk — the perfect recipe for infections like hoof rot.
Long or uneven hooves can cause:

• Limping or sore legs
• Joint and posture issues
• Pain and infection
• And one very grumpy goat who doesn’t want to walk or play!

Think of it like this: you wouldn’t want to walk around in shoes two sizes too small — neither do your goats.

How Often to Trim

It really depends on your setup:
• Rocky terrain? Nature helps file them down.
• Soft, muddy ground? Get ready to trim every 4–6 weeks.
• Active goats? They wear them naturally.
• Lazy loungers? You’ll need to step in more often.
A quick monthly check keeps things under control. If you hear “click-clack-click” when your goat walks in the barn, that’s their not-so-subtle way of saying, “Excuse me, I need a pedicure.”

Tools You’ll Need

Before you start your goat spa day, gather your gear:

• 🐐 Goat hoof trimmers – sharp ones! (Dull trimmers are basically medieval torture for you and your goat.)
• 🧹 Hoof pick  – to clean out dirt and gunk.
• 🪓 Rasp or file – for smoothing out rough spots.
• 💉 Styptic powder ( blood stop powder) or cornstarch – for “oops” moments when you trim too close.
• 🧴 Disinfectant spray – keeps things clean. ( tools and stand)
• 🍪 Treats  or grain – the most powerful goat motivation tool known to man.

How to Trim Without Losing Your Mind

• Secure your goat.
A milking stand is your best friend. If you don’t have one, a corner and a patient helper will do. Some goats behave like angels. Others suddenly discover acrobatics.

• Clean those hooves.
Get rid of mud, hay, and mystery debris (you don’t want to know). This helps you see what you’re working with.

• Start trimming.
The hoof has two parts — the hard outer wall and the softer inner sole. Trim little by little, leveling the wall with the sole. If you see pink, stop — that’s the quick, and cutting it will make your goat hop and scream. This does hurt – think of it as if you cut your nail too short. This is where you would use the cornstarch or blood stop powder. 

• Flatten and even out.
The goal is a flat, balanced hoof that sits evenly on the ground. Uneven trims lead to pressure and limping.

• Smooth the edges.
Use a rasp to tidy things up.

• Inspect and treat.
Check for bad smells, black spots, or soft areas — possible signs of hoof rot. Clean them well and use an antibacterial spray if needed.

• Give snacks and Compliments
“Who’s a good goat? You’re a good goat!” — say it proudly. They’ll act mad for two minutes, then forget everything when you hand over the treats.

The Sling Trick: Hands-Free Goat Hoofing (and Fewer Bruises for You)

Now, if you’ve got one of those wiggly goats who thinks trimming time is an audition for Cirque du Soleil, let me introduce you to your new best friend: the goat sling.

A sling is basically a soft hammock that holds your goat off the ground while you work on their hooves — and it’s a total game-changer. You can buy one online or make your own from sturdy fabric and straps (old hay nets don’t count, no matter how creative you feel).

Here’s why it’s worth it:

• Your goat can’t squirm, leap, or moonwalk away mid-trim.
• You can actually see what you’re doing.
• It’s easier on your back (and your patience).
• It’s safer for older or heavier goats who need extra support.
Just slip your goat’s legs through the sling, lift them gently until their hooves dangle, and get to work. They’ll pout at first, but most quickly realize it’s basically a goat-sized recliner. Bonus points if you hum spa music while you work.

Pro tip: Some goats relax so much in the sling they start chewing cud like they’re on vacation. That’s when you know you’ve nailed the art of goat pedicures.

Pro Tips from the Barn

• Trim after rain — soft hooves are easier to cut.
• Keep trimmers clean and sharp. Dull blades crush the hoof instead of slicing.
• If your goat has light-colored hooves, lucky you — it’s easier to see the quick.
• Go slow on dark hooves; the quick’s harder to spot.
• Do frequent small trims instead of waiting too long. (It’s faster and less drama.)
• And most importantly: don’t take it personally when your goat acts betrayed. They’ll forgive you… eventually.

Hoof Rot: The Uninvited Guest

If your goat’s hoof smells like something died in it —  it’s probably hoof rot. It’s caused by bacteria that love damp, dirty conditions.

What to do:
• Trim away the rotting parts carefully.
• Clean thoroughly.
• Apply a hoof treatment or antibacterial spray.
• Keep your pens dry — standing in muck is like wearing wet socks all day.
Regular trims and clean living spaces prevent most problems before they even start.

Seasonal Hoof Trimming Schedule

Hoof growth changes with the weather, so adjusting your trimming routine helps keep your goats in top shape all year long:
🌸 Spring:
Wet ground + fresh grass = soft hooves that grow fast. Check every 3–4 weeks.
☀️ Summer:
Dry weather slows growth, but rocky ground can crack hooves. Trim every 5–6 weeks, and watch for chips.
🍂 Fall:
Rain returns, and mud loves to hide in hooves. Go back to monthly trims and double down on cleaning.
❄️ Winter:
Cold slows everything down. Trim every 6–8 weeks (unless your goats are living in a warm, muddy paradise — then stick with every 4–6 weeks).

Goat Owner Tips I Wish I Knew Sooner

After a few years of trial, error, and mild goat chaos, here are a few lessons that could’ve saved me a lot of time (and bruises):
• Never trust a goat who stands too still. They’re planning something.
• Hoof trimmers disappear faster than socks in a dryer. Keep spares.
• Don’t trim in your favorite jeans. You will end up covered in dirt and goat hair.
• Snacks are more effective than strength. Bribe, don’t battle.
• Check kids’ hooves early. Start handling their feet young, and trims will be way easier later.
• Trimming days go smoother with music. Bonus points if you pick something upbeat — goats love a good jam session.

Final Thoughts

Trimming goat hooves may not be glamorous, but it’s one of the best ways to keep your herd healthy and happy. It’s a small job that pays off big — fewer limp scares, better posture, and goats that can bounce, run, and dance like they were born to.

So grab those trimmers, your sense of humor, and a pocket full of snacks. Whether you’re using a milking stand, a sling, or pure determination, it’s time for the great goat pedicure — because nothing says “I love my herd” quite like making sure their feet are just as fabulous as their personalities.

Remember: it’s not chaos, it’s hoof care with attitude. 🐐💅

Here are some photos of our goats in the goat sling! While we also do use the milking stand I would have to say the sling is my favorite way to do hooves!

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If goats had a fashion runway, the French Alpines would be strutting it with confidence. Tall, colorful, and full of personality — these goats aren’t just good-looking; they’re hardworking milk machines that keep homesteads running (and laughing).

From the Alps to Your Homestead

The French Alpine goat comes from—you guessed it—the Alps. These goats were originally bred to survive tough mountain life, where they had to be strong, clever, and resourceful. France later refined the breed for dairy traits, giving us the gorgeous, hardy milkers we know today.
Because of that mountain heritage, French Alpines can handle just about anything—hot summers, cold winters, or your goat-proofing attempts that don’t quite work as planned.

A Barnyard Fashion Show

If you love variety, Alpines are your kind of goat. They come in just about every color combo you can imagine—white, black, brown, gray, spotted, solid, you name it.
They’re tall and lean, built like little athletes. With upright ears and proud faces, they always look like they know they’re fabulous. And honestly, they kind of do.

Quick stats:

• Does: 135–155 lbs
• Bucks: 170 lbs or more
• Ears: Upright and alert (the better to hear you opening the feed bin)

The Real Star: Their Milk!

Let’s be honest—most folks fall in love with French Alpines for their milk.
• They can produce 1–2 gallons a day at their peak.
• Butterfat averages around 3.5%, making their milk rich and creamy without being heavy.
• Flavor: Sweet, clean, and mild—perfect for anyone new to goat milk.
• Uses: Drink it fresh, make cheese or yogurt, or whip up some goat milk soap that smells like success.
If you’ve got a family to feed or a soap business to start, these goats will keep the milk flowing.

Mischief Makers with Charm

Alpines are the life of the barnyard party. They’re smart, curious, and full of energy.
You might catch one trying to “help” you with chores, or another seeing if the grass really is greener on the other side of the fence (spoiler: they’ll find out).

They’re not overly clingy but still enjoy hanging out with their people—especially if snacks are involved.

Caring for Your French Alpines

They’re hardy, but they still like the good life:

• Shelter: Dry, draft-free, and cozy.
• Diet: Good hay ( I use alfalfa for all my goats), loose minerals, and a little grain for milkers.

• Health: Trim those hooves every 4–6 weeks and keep up with vaccinations if you choose to do them. Do your research and find out if vaccinations or the holistic way is best for your herd.

• Breeding: Does need to be bred each year to keep the milk coming. Gestation is around 150 days, and twins or triplets are common.

• Fencing: Strong and tall. These goats are Olympic-level jumpers and escape artists. ( honestly most goats are great at escaping no matter the breed!)
With proper care, they can live 10–12 years (and keep you entertained every one of those years).

• Herd : Remember you do need more than one goat!

Beyond Milk: The Other Side of Alpines

Sure, they’re dairy stars—but French Alpines can pull their weight in other ways too.

• Meat: Extra males that aren’t used for breeding can be raised for tender, flavorful meat.

• Pack Animals: Castrated males (called wethers) can be trained as pack animals! They’re strong, sure-footed, and love a good adventure. If you’ve ever dreamed of goat hiking buddies, these are your guys.
Even the “extra boys” can have a purpose on your homestead or trail.

Why You’ll Love Them

French Alpines are the full package:
• Reliable milkers 🥛
• Hardy and adaptable 🌦️
• Beautiful and unique 🎨
• Playful, clever, and full of personality 🐐💨
They fit right in whether you’ve got a big dairy operation or a cozy homestead.

✨ Bottom line:

French Alpines aren’t just pretty faces. They’re hardworking, adaptable, and just mischievous enough to keep life interesting. Whether you’re after milk, company, or a pack buddy for your next hike, these goats do it all—with style.

Here is a photo of my French Alpine doe! Her name is Lust. I know the photo is not the best it was getting dark and she looked so cute.

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